HAVANA, CUBA

Havana, ooh na-na! When you talk about Cuba, it is impossible not to mention its capital and most highly-touted city. Havana is at the pinnacle of Cuban culture and the fourth most populated city in the Caribbean. There is a lot to see here but, given its size, it’s surprisingly very walkable! You’ll quickly find that the streets are saturated with old-fashioned Cadillacs, Havana Club rum, and Cuban cigars. I can’t think of a better place you’d want to start your Cuban travels!

Attractions:

  • Havana Vieja: Old Havana is the heart of this magical city! You’ll find prominent city squares, vibrant architecture, remnants of the old city wall, baroque-style cathedrals, lively restaurants, and more! There is no shortage of stuff to do here; you can easily spend hours wandering around!

  • El Malecón: This seaside boulevard is unapologetically Cuban in every way. It has grit, personality, and feeling. Depending on the day, it can display a vast range of emotion; sunsets can bring out its romantic side, waves can evoke its anger, children giggling can give rise to its happiness, and guitarists performing can bring out its serenity. There’s a reason it’s mentioned in so much Cuban literature! I recommend carving out at least an hour to walk along a portion of this lovely 5-mile (8km) road.

  • Paseo del Prado: This marble pedestrian walkway, sometimes referred to as Paseo de Martí, divides Havana Vieja and Centro Havana. The entirety of this 1-mile promenade can be walked in 30 minutes but take your time to soak it in; there’s plenty to see!

  • Plaza de la Revolución: Although this is not the prettiest city square you will ever see, it is extremely historic! First of all, it’s huge - one of the largest city squares in the world. Secondly, it has hosted some of the most famous political rallies in Cuban history (not to mention Popes JPII & Francis). Lastly, it is where you can find José Martí’s Memorial and the iconic steel tributes to two of Cuba’s most celebrated heroes: Che Guevara (“Hasta la Victoria Siempre”) and Camilo Cienfuegos (“Vas bien, Fidel”). It’s an hour walk from Havana Vieja or a 15-minute colectivo ride (5 CUC).

  • Fábrica de Arte: A must-visit during your time in Havana! To describe it as a bar doesn’t come close to doing it justice. On their website, they refer to themselves as a “great interdisciplinary creation laboratory” so let’s go with that! This spot is a live music venue, art gallery, rooftop bar, cultural center, and nightclub wrapped into one. Fábrica de Arte is open Thursday-Sunday from 8:00pm-2:00am; entrance costs 2 CUC and worth every cent!

  • El Cañonazo de las Nueve: Every night at 9:00pm, a ceremony takes place at the fortress of La Cabaña. Soldiers dressed in traditional, 18th century uniforms “fire” the cannon as if they are sending a warning to close the city gates.  For a good view, be sure to get there closer to 8:30pm, it fills up quick! From Havana Vieja, a colectivo ride should cost 8-10 CUC each way.

  • Museo de la Revolución: Put simply, the U.S. version of Cuban history is far different than what you’ll see in this museum. Hearing the story told through Cuba’s perspective helped me understand the political climate on a much deeper level. It is important to note though that much of the museum’s text is in Spanish. Admission is 8 CUC and the museum is open daily from 9:00am-5:00pm.

  • El Capitolio: Cuba’s Capitol Building is one of the country’s most visited sites due to its commanding and grandiose stature. If you want to enter, you must purchase a 10 CUC guided tour. It is open Monday-Saturday from 10:30am-10:00pm (on Sundays, it is open from 10:30am-1:00pm).

  • Parque Central: 5 minutes walking from El Capitolio, this park’s palm trees provide some much-appreciated shade from the sweltering Havana sun.

  • Bodeguita del Medio, El Floridita, & Mango Habana: Are you an Ernest Hemingway fan? Rumor has it that he said, “My mojito in the Bodeguita del Medio and my daiquiri in the Floridita.” There is even a signed plaque with this quote scribbled on it inside El Floridita. While there are murmurs of its validity, these are both great bars to grab a drink after a long, hot day. If you’re looking for a non-alcoholic drink, go with guarapo (fresh-squeezed sugar cane juice). Hungry? Mango Habana is 5 minutes walking from El Floridita and is a good hole-in-the wall restaurant for a quick bite. The food is terrific; I recommend getting “Moros y Cristianos” and eating it as you admire El Capitolio.

  • Hop-On Hop-Off Bus Tour: While I don’t generally recommend these, this one is a solid deal. A day ticket costs 10 CUC and runs from 9:00am-7:00pm. Buses come every 30 minutes and stop at locations such as Plaza de la Revolución, El Capitolio, Parque Central, and El Floridita. Not a bad way to see the city!

  • Fusterlandia: Calling all art lovers! How does a colorful town full of mosaic-covered buildings sound? Fusterlandia’s actual name is Jaimanitas but it goes by the former because of what artist José Fuster has created here - an amusement park for your eyes! To get here from Havana Vieja, a 30-minute taxi costs 20 CUC. You can also get here via public bus if you’re feeling adventurous. Take the local P1 bus to the end of the line (Playa) and transfer to the next bus heading to Jaimanitas. This full trip takes 60-90 minutes and costs 2 CUC. If you’re looking for street art in Havana proper, check out Callejon de Hamel!

  • Playa Santa María del Mar: From Havana Vieja, this public beach is 30 minutes due east. It’s a perfect spot to kick back and relax after spending a few days in the hustle and bustle of Havana. From Parque Central, you can take a taxi one-way for 15-20 CUC or you can ride the T3 bus for 2 CUC.

  • Other spots to check out include: Plaza de la Catedral, Gran Teatro de La Habana, Castillo de Los Tres Reyes del Morro, and El Cementerio de Cristóbal Colón.

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Accommodation:

  • Casa de Hatuey: My favorite place I stayed in Cuba!  The staff are extremely friendly, helpful, and take the time to know you by name. Since internet is hard to come by across the country, they have maps taped to the walls leading you to every main attraction in the area. The 10 CUC/night cost includes breakfast and dinner (which can be made to fit any dietary restriction).  The dinners I had here were the best meals I had while in Cuba!  Casa de Hatuey is 30 minutes walking from both Terminal de Ómnibus Nacionales and Havana Vieja. You can find them on Hostelworld or Facebook. Thank you, Cassandra, Mainrel, Hatuey, Yuri, and Wilmur for a memorable stay!

Transportation:

Havana’s main bus station is Terminal de Ómnibus Nacionales; all buses below leave from here. From Havana Vieja, the walk here is 35 minutes. At this bus station, you can find colectivos heading to Viñales, Varadero, Cienfuegos, Trinidad, etc. The prices I list below can be bartered especially if you are traveling in a group and can fill up the entire vehicle. If you would rather be picked up from where you are staying, colectivos can be booked through your casa particular or hotel, too.

  • Varadero is 3 hours by bus from Havana and costs 10 CUC; buses leave four times daily at 8:00am, 10:00am, 12:00pm, and 5:00pm. The colectivo ride is 2 hours and costs 20-25 CUC.

  • Viñales is 3.5 hours by bus from Havana and costs 12 CUC; buses leave twice daily at 8:40am and 2:00pm. The colectivo ride is 2 hours and costs 20-25 CUC.

  • Cienfuegos is 5 hours by bus from Havana and costs 20 CUC; buses leave twice daily at 7:00am and 10:45am. The colectivo ride is 3 hours and costs 25-30 CUC.

  • Trinidad is 6.5 hours by bus from Havana and costs 24 CUC; buses leave twice daily at 7:00am and 10:45am. The colectivo ride is 4 hours and costs 30-35 CUC.

  • Santiago de Cuba is 13-17 hours by bus from Havana and costs 51 CUC; buses leave four times daily at 6:00am, 3:15pm, 6:00pm, and 10:00pm. The flight is 1 hour and costs 100-150 CUC. This route is too lengthy for colectivos. Additionally, I don’t recommend taking the train (because of its discomfort) or a private taxi (because of the price).

José Martí International Airport (HAV) is 20km (12 miles) from Havana Vieja and accessible via bus and taxi.

  • MetroBus Habana: The ride is 40 minutes and costs 1 CUC; buses leave every 10 minutes. This bus will drop you off at the bus station mentioned above (Terminal de Ómnibus Nacionales).

  • Taxi: The ride is 30 minutes and costs 20-25 CUC. Be sure to agree on a price before you leave the airport.

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A special shout-out to my good friend, Justin Forrest Parks! Thank you for sharing the pictures you took on our trip!