KRAKÓW, POLAND
“First they came for the socialists, and I did not speak out—because I was not a socialist. Then they came for the trade unionists, and I did not speak out— because I was not a trade unionist. Then they came for the Jews, and I did not speak out—because I was not a Jew. Then they came for me—and there was no one left to speak for me.” - Martin Niemöller
Poland’s second largest city is one of the world’s best-preserved both architecturally and historically. When I think of characteristics that make this city memorable, one that particularly sticks is how real it is. Kraków’s genuine humanity resonates deeply with those who visit - especially those who make the trip to Auschwitz-Birkenau, Schindler’s Factory, and the city’s Jewish Quarter. Stories told here need to be heard, but more importantly need not be forgotten. Throughout the city, feelings of both beauty and trauma are palpable at every turn. It is a city unlike any other!
Attractions:
Free Walking Tour: The first thing I try to do when visiting a new city is the walking tour. Walkative! offers two free tours I highly recommend - Old Town Kraków and Jewish Kraków. Both are 2.5 hours long and run daily. The Old Town tour picks up at 10:00am and again at 2:00pm between St. Florian’s Gate and Barbican. The Jewish tour picks up at 2:00pm in front of the Old Synagogue on Szeroka 24 Street. Look for the yellow umbrella!
Rynek Główny Central Square: Europe’s largest city square is located at the epicenter of Kraków’s Old Town. The square’s focal point is Cloth Hall, a 14th century “shopping mall” thought to be the world’s first. Watching commandingly over the square, you will also see St. Mary’s Cathedral and Town Hall Tower. If you pass through here at the top of the hour, you will hear the traditional bugle call dating back to the 13th century! Encircling the Old Town is Planty Park, a lovely greenspace made up of eight gardens. Be sure to also stop by both St. Florian’s Gate and Barbican!
Visit Auschwitz Concentration Camp: Hands down one of the most moving experiences of my life. Of all the Nazi concentration camps, Auschwitz-Birkenau was the largest. During WWII from May 1940- January 1945, over 1.1 million people were murdered here; on a horrifyingly micro level, that is 650 people every single day for 57 months. Visitors will see gas chambers, train cars, dormitories, and barbed wire fences. They will see piles of hair, shoes, and children’s toys. The tour is chilling, heavy, and does not hold back in displaying the atrocities that took place here less than 60 years ago. No, it is really not that long ago at all. A visit here is a promise to never forget and to ensure the world never forgets. Cracow City Tours offers a 6-hour tour with transit and a guide included for 160 PLN ($40 USD). You can save nearly $15 USD by visiting on your own. From Kraków’s Dworzec MDA bus station, purchase a ticket to either Oświęcim PKP (the small town outside of Auschwitz) or Auschwitz Museum. Buses run hourly and are 90 minutes in length. The bus to Oświęcim PKP costs 13 PLN ($3.30 USD) and drops off 20 minutes walking from the museum while the bus directly to the museum costs 15 PLN ($3.80 USD). Joining a 3.5-hour guided tour once on site costs 75 PLN ($19 USD) and must be booked in advance of your visit.
Wawel Castle & Cathedral: One of the first-ever UNESCO World Heritage sites is a great place to spend a few hours during your stay in Kraków! While the grounds are free to walk around, entrance to the castle costs 15 PLN (unless you are visiting on a Monday from April 1-October 31 or a Sunday from November 1-March 31; in which case your entrance is free)! The castle is open Tuesday-Sunday from 9:30am-5:00pm; on Mondays it is open from 9:30am-1:00pm. Say hi to the dragon, Smok Wawelski!
Wieliczka Salt Mine: Characterized as both a UNESCO World Heritage Site and Poland Official National Historic Monument, more than 1 million people visit Wieliczka’s salt mine annually. Salt was incredibly valuable in the 14th century and this mine helped the Kingdom of Poland reach great heights. In fact, it produced table salt continuously from the 13th century until 2007! Today, visitors will find dozens of sculptures and four chapels - all carved by miners from rock salt. It is open daily from 9:00am-5:00pm and a 2-hour tour costs 93 PLN ($24 USD). From Dworzec MDA, board bus 304 to Wieliczka Kopalnia Soli (40 minutes; 4.60 PLN). Cracow City Tours also offers a 4.5-hour tour with transportation and a guide included for 160 PLN ($40 USD).
Ojców National Park: From Kraków, UniBus offers a service connecting this park to the city. Buses depart seven times daily from Kamienna 8; a timetable can be found here. The 35-minute bus ride costs 8 PLN ($2 USD) and tickets can be purchased on board. The bus drops off near the foot of Kazimierz Castle where you will find multiple trailheads leading to 23km (14 miles) of trails; more information here). There is no entrance fee to the park, and it is open 24/7. If you prefer a taxi over the bus, expect to pay 60 PLN each way. You can also visit with Cracow City Tours complete with transportation and a guide for 130 PLN ($33 USD).
Schindler’s Factory: Thanks to Steven Spielberg's famous film, Schindler’s List, most people know what took place in this building during WWII. While the movie’s primary focus is on Oskar Schindler, this museum zooms in on the story from Kraków’s point of view. The factory is open Tuesday-Sunday from 10:00am-6:00pm. Tickets must be reserved online and entrance costs 26 PLN ($6.50 USD). On Mondays, the hours are 10:00am-2:00pm and entrance is free! Keep in mind the museum is closed the first Tuesday of every month.
Other attractions include: Kościuszko Mound, Rynek Underground, National Museum in Kraków, Lost Souls Alley, Old Kleparz, and Jordan Park.
Accommodation:
Greg & Tom Hostels: This hostel chain has three locations in Kraków - all separate and unique based on what you are looking for. If you are looking to have a wild, vodka-filled stay, you will fit in best at their party hostel. If you prefer a social, pub feel, then I recommend their beer house hostel. If you are looking for a relaxing, homey vibe, choose their home hostel. All three are conveniently located within walking distance of Rynek Główny Central Square. Prices may look a skosh higher than other hostels, but keep in mind that breakfast and dinner are included in the room cost!
Transportation:
Kraków’s main train station is Kraków Główny; all trains below leave from here. The main bus station is Dworzec MDA (located just east of the railway terminal); all buses below leave from here unless noted otherwise.
Warsaw is 3 hours by train from Kraków and costs 60 PLN ($15 USD). The bus ride is 5 hours and costs 47 PLN ($12 USD). The flight is 1 hour and costs 80-395 PLN ($20-$100 USD) on LOT Polish Airlines.
Bratislava, Slovakia is 7 hours by train from Kraków and costs 268 PLN ($68 USD). The bus ride is 7.5 hours and costs 146 PLN ($37 USD). No airlines run this route non-stop.
Vienna, Austria is 7 hours by train from Kraków and costs 295 PLN ($75 USD). The bus ride is 7 hours and costs 146 PLN ($37 USD). No airlines run this route non-stop.
Prague, Czechia is 7.5 hours by train from Kraków and costs 166 PLN ($42 USD). The (overnight) bus ride is 7.5 hours and costs 99 PLN ($25 USD). No airlines run this route non-stop.
Lviv, Ukraine is 8 hours by train from Kraków (indirect; via Przemyśl) and costs 90 PLN ($22 USD). The (overnight) bus ride is 7 hours and costs 166 PLN ($42 USD); this bus leaves from Kraków Dworzec Autobusowy Czyżyny. No airlines run this route non-stop.
Budapest, Hungary is 9.5 hours by train from Kraków and costs 238 PLN ($60 USD). The bus ride is 7.5 hours and costs 150 PLN ($38 USD). No airlines run this route non-stop.
Berlin, Germany is 10 hours by train from Kraków (indirect; via Warsaw) and costs 189 PLN ($48 USD). The (overnight) bus ride is 8.5 hours and costs 110 PLN ($28 USD). No airlines run this route non-stop.
Kraków John Paul II International Airport (KRK) is 15km (9 miles) west of the city center and accessible via bus, train, or taxi. Below are transportation options to Kraków Główny from least to most expensive.
Bus #208: The ride is 45 minutes and costs 4.60 PLN ($1 USD). Buses leave the airport hourly from 4:35am-10:20pm. After the 4:35am time slot, buses leaves consistently 20 minutes after the hour (5:20am, 6:20am, 7:20am, etc.).
Bus #902: The late-night bus is the same length and price. Buses leave the airport hourly from 11:25pm-4:55am. The timetable is as follows: 11:25pm, 12:20am, 1:20am, 2:20am, 3:20am, 3:55am, and 4:55am.
Train SKA1: The ride is 20 minutes and costs 12 PLN ($3 USD). Trains depart every 30 minutes from 4:35am-12:30am.
Taxi: The ride is 30 minute and costs 90-120 PLN ($22-$30 USD) depending on the time of day.
