LUCERNE, SWITZERLAND
Lucerne is an enchanting city of under 100,000 people in Central Switzerland oftentimes voted the most beautiful in the country. Envision floating down the Reuss River, the brisk, Swiss air whipping through your hair. As the city comes into view, you pass Kapellbrücke - the oldest wooden covered bridge in all of Europe. Before you know it, you find yourself in the bay with Lake Lucerne in the foreground and the “Queen of the Swiss Alps”, Mt. Rigi, in the background. Is this Heaven? No, it’s Iowa Lucerne.
Attractions:
Chapel Bridge (Kapellbrücke): This is the bridge in all the postcards and pictures you see of Lucerne. It is iconic, gorgeous, and lucky to still be standing! In 1993, the bridge caught fire and in less than ten minutes, half of it was ablaze. By morning, it was heard around the world that two thirds of it was destroyed. Construction began immediately and by sheer perseverance, it was rebuilt within eight months! It is not only a symbol of Lucerne, but of Switzerland as a whole!
Climb Mt. Rigi: Did you even visit Switzerland if you didn’t hike in the Swiss Alps? Trekking up Mt. Rigi was the highlight of my trip to Lucerne, but it is not for the faint-hearted! The round-trip hike is free and takes between 5-8 hours to complete. Alternatively, you can ride to the top on the cogwheel train. The train has many stops along the way allowing you to hike as much (or as little) as you want. From Lucerne, your first step is getting to the base of the mountain. Across the street from Bahnhof Luzern, find the main ferry dock and buy a round-trip ticket to Vitznau (1 hour; 48 CHF). This scenic ferry leaves roughly every hour from 9:00am-4:00pm. Upon reaching land, find the Vitznau cogwheel train station and grab a free map. From here you will see the trailhead and can begin your trek up! The picturesque, challenging hike to Rigi Kulm (the peak) is clearly marked and takes 3-5 hours one-way. I promise it's worth every step! If you plan to take the train, purchase your tickets here. The ride to Rigi Kulm is 40 minutes and costs 45 CHF ($51 USD) one-way; round-trip tickets cost 72 CHF ($81 USD). The ride halfway up to Rigi Kaltbad is 15 minutes and costs 33 CHF ($37 USD); round-trip tickets cost 53 CHF ($60 USD). The hike from Kaltbad to Kulm is 60-90 minutes. At the peak, you will find a lounging area above the clouds with hordes of people admiring the surreal view from 1,800m up. Once you’ve had your fill, the hike down takes 2-3 hours. Be sure to plan your day accordingly because the last ferry to Lucerne leaves Vitznau just before 6:00pm. Long story short, save your money and do the hike; you will not regret it! You can also hike up both Mt. Pilatus and Mt. Titlis if you have the time!
Lion Monument: Carved into a stone wall, this lion with a spear piercing its side is one of the city’s main landmarks. Above the monument reads in Latin, “To the loyalty and bravery of the Swiss” in commemoration of the Swiss Guards killed during the French Revolution in the late 1700s. It is open and free to visit 24/7.
Walk Along the Musegg Wall: Built in the 14th century, this stone wall and its nine towers used to fortify Lucerne. It has stood the test of time and is in great shape! Visitors can climb the wood steps of Schirmer Tower to get up onto the old wall itself. Be sure to walk to the famous clock tower, Zytturm - it is beautifully painted and well worth a visit. In addition to Schirmer and Zyt, Männli Tower is also open to the public free of charge.
Ufschötti & Inseli Parks: These lakefront parks are two of the most peaceful places in Lucerne. Kick back, relax, and enjoy the breath-taking scenery, especially at sunset! Ufschötti is slightly larger and offers free swimming at its beach. Inseli is a great spot to enjoy a drink, meal, or music. In the summer, the pop-up bar, Volière, is a must. Run by the local youth radio, all proceeds go back into their mission to support programming (more info here). At night, you can oftentimes find live concerts here!
Felsenweg Bürgenstock: This famous, cliff-side 5km (3 mile) loop trail is open from May-October. If you do not have a vehicle, take the 25-minute ferry from Lucerne to Kehrsiten-Bürgenstock; ferries leave roughly every hour from 9:00am-5:00pm. Once here, ride the 4-minute funicular to the top. The round-trip ticket (ferry and funicular) costs 84 CHF ($94 USD). From here, the scenic path is clearly marked and takes 60-90 minutes. Don’t miss the Hammetschwand Lift, Europe’s highest exterior elevator. The round-trip ticket costs 18 CHF ($20 USD) and offers an incredible panoramic view! All in all, the round-trip journey from Lucerne takes 3-5 hours and costs 102 CHF ($112 USD).
Free Walking Tour: Nothing quite like a walking tour to get your bearings in a new city. Free Walk Switzerland’s 2-hour general tour hits all of Lucerne’s highlights and delves into a bit of Swiss history. The tour picks up at Bahnhofplatz; date and time availability can be found here.
Hike to Hotel Château Gütsch: From the city center, the hike up to this boutique, castle hotel takes 30 minutes (route here). It’s steep, but enjoyable! Although not necessary, feel free to grab a drink from the hotel bar while enjoying the landscape. Just a short walk further, you will find a wooded area with pretty hiking trails and picnic tables worth exploring.
Lucerne Lido: Much more than just a place to swim in the lake! Open from May-September, this spot has a swimming pool, playground, restaurant, and volleyball courts. Entrance costs 8 CHF and hours depend on the time of year (more info here).
Other things to check out include: Swiss Museum of Transport, Hofkirche St. Leodegar, Vögeligärtli Park, and Torbogen.
Accommodation:
Backpackers Lucerne: This cozy hostel is a backpacker’s haven. The staff is lovely, and the amenities are fantastic! It is centrally-located just 15 minutes walking from the city center and Lucerne Railway Station. Did I mention Lake Lucerne is right across the street and the beach is less than 5 minutes away? It doesn’t get much better than this!
Transportation:
Lucerne’s main train station is Lucerne Railway Station (Bahnhof Lucerne); all trains below leave from here. Given Lucerne’s size and the fact that bus travel is not very common, their only intercity bus station is a small bus stop right outside the train station. When traveling city-to-city, your best bet is to travel by train.
Zürich is 45 minutes by train from Lucerne and costs 10 CHF ($11 USD).
Basel is 1 hour by train from Lucerne and costs 12 CHF ($14 USD).
Bern is 1.5 hours by train from Lucerne and costs 14 CHF ($16 USD).
Geneva is 3 hours by train from Lucerne and costs 34 CHF ($38 USD).
Milan, Italy is 3.5 hours by train from Lucerne and costs 55 CHF ($62 USD).
Munich, Germany is 5.5 hours by train from Lucerne (indirect; via Zürich) and costs 79 CHF ($89 USD).
Paris, France is 5.5 hours by train from Lucerne (indirect; via Basel) and costs 89 CHF ($100 USD).
Luxembourg City, Luxembourg is 6 hours by train from Lucerne (indirect; via Basel) and costs 105 CHF ($118 USD).
Salzburg, Austria is 6.5 hours by train from Lucerne (indirect; via Zürich) and costs 138 CHF ($155 USD).
Venice, Italy is 7 hours by train from Lucerne (indirect; via Milan) and costs 109 CHF ($123 USD).
The closest airport to Lucerne is Zürich Airport (ZRH), which is 65km (40 miles) north. The bus connecting ZRH to Lucerne is 1 hour and costs 15 CHF ($17 USD); buses leave every hour from 6:00am-8:00pm.
