TORRES DEL PAINE NATIONAL PARK (PUERTO NATALES, CHILE)
Puerto Natales: The Gateway to Patagonia! This small town of less than 20,000 Chileans is nothing to call home about but finds itself well-traveled because of its proximity to Torres del Paine National Park. You will most likely spend at least one night here on your way to completing the W Trek or O Circuit. Good luck and enjoy!
Let’s keep it real. You came to Puerto Natales to visit Torres del Paine (TdP). Depending on the amount of time you have, there are three main options to explore this stunning national park. If you have 1-3 days, you can see the park via day trips/hikes (to be clear, this is not my recommendation). If you have 4-6 days, you can hike the famous W Trek. If you have 7-10 days (and a determined, adventurous soul), you can tackle the O Circuit. For more information, keep scrolling or jump to a specific section:
This 80km (50 mile) trek is one of the most beautiful in the entire world! It takes 4-6 days to complete depending on your pace and can be done in either direction (west to east or east to west). For sake of reference, my friends and I did the W in 5 days/4 nights; we are an active bunch, but I would not refer to us as professional hikers by any stretch of the imagination. All in all, it took us 27 hours of hiking to complete; we were challenged, but did not feel rushed whatsoever. We chose to hike from east to west based on campground availability. The main difference when it comes to which direction you choose, is whether you take the ferry on your first day or last day. Campground bookings should be done at least six months in advance. To help make reservations, please check out the Torres del Paine map here.
Day 1: Puerto Natales to Camping Las Torres (6-9 hours [18.8km/11.7 mi] & 725m elevation gain/loss)
We took the 7:00am bus from Puerto Natales to Amarga (2 hours; 8,000 CLP). Very important - make sure you book your round-trip bus tickets to TdP at least one day in advance as they book up quickly! At 9:00am, we arrived and waited in line to watch a safety video, pay the entrance fee, and receive a park map. The video was no more than 10 minutes and the park entrance fee was 35,000 CLP ($48 USD) since we were staying in the park for more than 3 days (this must be paid in cash; cards are not accepted). Afterwards, we took a short shuttle bus (10 minutes; 3,000 CLP) from Amarga to Camping Las Torres (also known as Camping Central). If you do not want to take the bus, you can hike to Camping Las Torres instead (90 minutes; free). Once we arrived, we found a spot to set up camp. It was 10:30am at this point and we were in no hurry to start our hike (because in January, the sun doesn’t set in this part of the world until 10:30pm). After enjoying a cup of joe, eating lunch, and setting up our tents, we began our trek at 12:00pm. Since we were hiking to and from camp, we gladly left our bags in our tents. The hike was tough but would have been much harder had we had to carry our bags. According to the map, the round-trip hike to Mirador Base de las Torres takes 9 hours round-trip but we did it in 6.5 hours. The hike starts relatively flat through the valley and its green, rolling hills before ascending into a wooded forest. As we passed through the trees, the hike steadily became steeper and rockier. It was arduous but manageable (especially since the scenery was unbelievable)! We knew we reached the end when we walked up to a cyan-colored glacial lake surrounded by towering mountains. The total elevation gain was 725m (which meant we lost 725m coming back down). The mountains we saw here are known as “The Towers” or “Las Torres”. We sat and admired the scenery (and even saw an Andean Fox) before making our way back down. We were back at camp by 7:00pm. After dinner and a beer, it was time for bed.
Day 2: Camping Las Torres to Camping Francés (5-7 hours [14.6km/9.1 mi] & 50m elevation gain)
We rolled out of our tents at 8:30am, packed up, ate, and were on the road by 11:00am with our bags on our backs. Again, given the amount of sunlight we had, what was the rush? Before we left the campground, we grabbed a half-used gas canister from the communal bin because we wanted to ensure we wouldn’t run out of propane on the trail. We followed the signs for Los Cuernos, and made our journey through the hilly, Chilean mountainside with its many hues of green tussocks. As we tramped along at a slower pace than the day prior, we walked alongside reflective lakes, crossed suspension bridges, and traipsed through babbling brooks. Talk about gorgeous! By 6:15pm, we were setting up our tents on elevated, wooden platforms surrounded by thousands of trees. Luckily, we had sleeping pads because the platforms weren’t too forgiving on the ole back. We were looking forward to food, relaxation, and sleep; all in all, the hike took 6 hours (the map states that it takes 6.5 hours). The kitchen area at Camping Francés was relatively small but the bathroom facilities were very nice.
Day 3: Camping Francés to Paine Grande (7-10 hours [20.3km/12.6 mi] & 700m elevation gain/loss)
Similarly to the day before, we got on the trail by 11:00am. After carrying our backpacks for 30 minutes, we dropped them off at Campamento Italiano. This is what most hikers do given the steep hike up and down Británico. After an hour, we broke out of the trees to get a great view of what looked like a glacier on a mountainside. We saw and heard a few small-scale avalanches as we continued our climb. Once we got to be 30 minutes from the top, the hike became much steeper. It was all well worth the sweat and 700m elevation gain as we got to the top of Británico at 2:00pm. This panoramic view was arguably the highlight of the entire W! The contrast of sky-scraping, snow-capped mountains surrounded by green, lush forest was a sight we took in for at least 30 minutes as we sat up on the tall rocks. We made our way back down the mountainside and arrived to Campamento Italiano to pick up our bags at 4:15pm. From Campamento Italiano, Paine Grande was another 2+ hours of hiking. As we neared the end of the day’s hike, we came up over a hill and were stopped in our tracks by the beauty Pehoé Lake. When you hear of lakes being fake blue - the type of blue only Instagram filters can create - this is what you envision. It was absolutely beautiful! This marked that Paine Grande was only 20 minutes further. We arrived to camp at 6:30pm, set up camp, and enjoyed the rest of our evening. This was our longest day of hiking at 7.5 hours (the map estimates the hike takes 9 hours). The campground was the nicest we encountered on the trail inclusive of a restaurant, showers, and a large kitchen area. The backdrop was also the prettiest with mountains on one side and Pehoé Lake on the other. Watching the moon come out from behind the mountains is a vision I won’t soon forget!
Day 4: Paine Grande to Paine Grande (7-9 hours [23.0km/14.3 mi] & 50m elevation gain/loss)
Our last day of hiking! Since we were returning to camp at the end of the day, this was another hike we could do without our bags. At 11:30am, we started our trek to Glacier Grey. As we got halfway to the glacier, I couldn’t help but get excited that we were going to get even closer! It took us 3 hours in total to get there and what we saw was remarkable. You are able to get right up next to the lake and see the ice chunks floating in it. Maybe 200 yards out, you can see the huge glacier extending as far as your eyes can see. As we sat and cherished the view, we saw a humongous Andean Condor fly 20 feet over our heads! We took our time and completed the hike back in 4 hours - it’s pretty flat the majority of the way. In total, the day’s hike was 7 hours (7.5 hours on the map) and as we crossed the finish line, arm in arm, we couldn’t believe it was over! In that moment, I think we were all ready for the hike to be done. We all had some pain we were walking through but looking back at the experience, I can’t help but wish I could go back! No need to worry though, I’ll return to do the O Circuit!
Day 5: Paine Grande to Puerto Natales (no hiking)
Depending on what time you want to get up in the morning (and how many celebratory beers you had), you can take either the 9:35am or 11:35am catamaran ferry back to Pudeto. The ride is 35 minutes and costs $35 USD. The dock is right outside the campground so no need to build in commute time. Be sure to leave any half-used gas canisters behind at Paine Grande so other hikers can use them! You will arrive in Pudeto at 10:10am or 12:10pm. There are buses that depart from here to Puerto Natales at 10:30am and 12:30pm. The ride is 2 hours and costs 6,000 CLP ($8 USD). Note: This day can be cut out if you take the 6:35pm ferry on Day 4.
6 Days/5 Nights: A great option if you want to take the trek at a slower pace and spend more time in Torres del Paine!
Day 1: Puerto Natales to Refugio Chileno (5-7 hours [13.8km/8.6 mi] & 725m elevation gain/loss)
Day 2: Refugio Chileno to Camping Francés (5-7 hours [13.0km/8.1 mi] & 400m elevation loss)
Day 3: Camping Francés to Campamento Italiano (5-7 hours [12.8km/8.0 mi] & 600m gain/loss)
This day would require hiking up to Británico (600m elevation gain) and back down (600m elevation loss).
Day 4: Campamento Italiano to Grey Camping Zone (6-8 hours [18.5km/11.5 mi] & 100m elevation loss)
Day 5: Grey Camping Zone to Paine Grande (3-5 hours [11.0km/6.8 mi] & 50m elevation gain)
Day 6: Paine Grande to Puerto Natales (no hiking)
This day can be removed if you catch the catamaran ferry back to Pudeto on Day 5 (and consequently catch the bus to Puerto Natales, too). This would mean you could complete the W in 5 days/5 nights.
4 Days/4 Nights: See the 5 Day/4 Night itinerary I did with my friends above and subtract the second night at Paine Grande. In order to do this, you would need to start Day 4 early enough to give you enough time to get back to Paine Grande for the last catamaran ferry at 6:35pm. You would arrive back to Puerto Natales at 10:30pm.
Day 1: Puerto Natales to Camping Las Torres (6-9 hours [18.8km/11.7 mi] & 725m elevation gain/loss)
Day 2: Camping Las Torres to Camping Francés (5-7 hours [14.6km/9.1 mi] & 50m elevation gain)
Day 3: Camping Francés to Paine Grande (7-10 hours [20.3km/12.6 mi] & 700m elevation gain/loss)
Day 4: Paine Grande to Puerto Natales (7-9 hours [23.0km/14.3 mi] & 50m elevation gain/loss)
4 Days/3 Nights: If you are hoping to complete the trek in less time, this option would allow for that (and you wouldn’t need to skip anything). I do not recommend it based on how rushed and difficult it appears but I have laid it out below:
Day 1: Puerto Natales to Los Cuernos (10-13 hours [23.8km/14.8 mi] & 1,000m elevation gain/loss)
Upon arriving to Camping Las Torres at 9:30am, you would have to really hustle up and down Mirador Base de las Torres. Instead of stopping at Chileno for the night, you would continue on to Los Cuernos. This would be a very tough first day. Especially since you would need to be very mindful of the sun setting in this scenario. Since the earliest you could start this day is at 9:30am, you could be hiking into the night.
Day 2: Los Cuernos to Paine Grande (9-12 hours [23.3km/14.5 mi] & 1,000m elevation gain/loss)
From Los Cuernos, you would hike to Campamento Italiano and put your backpack down. After hiking up and down Británico, you would grab your bag and complete the hike to Paine Grande.
Day 3: Paine Grande to Paine Grande (7-9 hours [23.0km/14.3 mi] & 50m elevation gain/loss)
Wake up in Paine Grande and hike to and from Glacier Grey. This would be your easiest day by far.
Day 4: Paine Grande to Puerto Natales (no hiking)
All you would do on this day is catch the catamaran ferry to Pudeto and then the bus to Puerto Natales. If you started early enough on Day 3, you could feasibly skip this day altogether. That would lead to the hike being completed in 3 days/3 nights.
This 135km (85 mile) circuit is the W Trek plus some! Since it is longer and more challenging, it is less traveled than the W. If you enjoy hiking though, this is a no-brainer! It can be done clockwise or counterclockwise and can be started at Paine Grande or Camping Las Torres (also known as Camping Central). I have not done this hike yet, but based on the map and talking to fellow travelers, most hikers do the circuit in 9 days/8 nights. They generally follow the below route:
Day 1: Puerto Natales to Campamento Serón (3-5 hours [13.0km/8.1 mi] & 200m elevation gain/loss)
Day 2: Campamento Serón to Refugio Dickson (5-7 hours [18.0km/11.2 mi] & 100m elevation gain/loss)
Day 3: Refugio Dickson to Campamento Los Perros (4-5 hours [11.8km/7.3 mi] & 400m elevation gain/loss)
Day 4: Campamento Los Perros to Campamento Paso (5-6 hours [8.0km/5 mi] & 700m elevation gain/loss)
Day 5: Campamento Paso to Paine Grande (7-9 hours [18.0km/11.2 mi] & 400m elevation loss)
Day 6: Paine Grande to Campamento Italiano (7-10 hours [20.3km/12.6 mi] & 900m elevation gain/loss)
Day 7: Campamento Italiano to Refugio Chileno (7-9 hours [21.2 km/13.2 mi] & 300m elevation gain)
Day 8: Refugio Chileno to Camping Las Torres (5-7 hours [13.8km/8.6 mi] & 600m elevation gain/loss)
Day 9: Camping Las Torres to Puerto Natales (no hiking)
Although I recommend doing the W Trek or O Circuit, this park can definitely be visited as a day trip from Puerto Natales. That said, it is easier to day trip if you rent a vehicle as opposed to taking buses (since you won’t be restricted by a bus schedule). All three days below both start and finish in Puerto Natales. For each of these days, you will be required to pay the park entrance fee of 25,000 CLP ($34 USD) upon arrival. As much as I want you to spend more than three days in Torres del Paine, if you only have three days (or less), below is what I would do:
Day 1 - Highlights of Torres del Paine Day Tour
Day 2 - Glacier Grey (7-9 hours [23.0km/14.3 mi] & 50m elevation gain/loss)
This hike is absolutely lovely and its path winds through the green hills and snow-capped mountains of Patagonia. It ends with a fantastic view of a glacier fit with ice chunks floating in a glacial lake! If you plan to take the bus both ways, be mindful of time. The round-trip hike takes 7-9 hours. It is possible to do the hike at a comfortable pace and still catch the last ferry/bus back to Puerto Natales, but keep an eye on your watch. My suggestion for doing this would be to take the 6:40am bus that runs from Puerto Natales to Pudeto (2 hours; 8,000 CLP). This is a very popular bus so book your round-trip tickets at least one day in advance. Once you arrive to Pudeto at 8:45am, get right in line to catch the first catamaran ferry of the day at 9:00am to Paine Grande (35 minutes; $35 USD). The ferry tickets cannot be bought in advance which is why you must get in line once you arrive. Once you get to Paine Grande at 9:35am, follow the signs to Glacier Grey. From this point, you’ll have exactly 9 hours to hike and get back for the last ferry of the day (6:35pm). On your way to the glacier, you will only gain 50m in elevation (and lose those 50m on your walk back). Once again, be sure you are being conscious of your time! The 6:35pm ferry gets you into Pudeto at 7:10pm and the final bus back to Puerto Natales leaves Pudeto at 8:30pm (2 hours; 6,000 CLP). Is this route possible if you take the bus both ways? Yes. Will you enjoy yourself? Of course. Just be warned, you may feel a bit rushed!
Day 3 - Mirador Base de las Torres (6-9 hours [18.8km/11.7 mi] & 725m elevation gain/loss)
Possibly the most popular hike in Torres del Paine! The first hour is spent walking through a vast meadow towards the mountains. The next portion runs through a wooded forest and, finally, you will end the hike with a stunning view of the towers painted into the sky behind a cyan-colored glacial lake. Talk about awe-inspiring! Who knows, you may even see an Andean Fox or two! To do this from Puerto Natales, take the 7:00am bus that runs to Amarga (2 hours; 8,000 CLP). Similar to above, this is a very popular bus so book your round-trip tickets at least one day in advance. From Amarga, take a short shuttle bus (10 minutes; 3,000 CLP) to Camping Las Torres. From here, follow the signs to Mirador Base de las Torres. It should be 9:30am by this time. You will climb 725m over the course of 9.4km to reach the top (and will consequently have to hike back down the same way). Depending on your fitness, speed, and number of breaks, this hike can take anywhere between 6-10 hours. Once you arrive back to Camping Las Torres, catch a shuttle bus back to Amarga. The last bus departing for Puerto Natales is at 9:00pm (1.5 hours; 7,000 CLP).
There are a lot of logistical items you need to take care of before you start hiking through Torres del Paine! The five main concepts to think through are accommodation, equipment rental, food/water, packing, and cost.
Accommodation
Camping in Torres del Paine: While on the W Trek, I camped at 3 campgrounds over the span of 4 nights - Camping Las Torres (17,000 CLP/night), Camping Francés (17,000 CLP/night), and Paine Grande (10,000/night). I recommend booking these campgrounds six months in advance to ensure you get your spot - especially if you plan to go in high season (December through February). Depending on which campsites you plan to stay at, you will need to make reservations through the corresponding companies below:
Campsites Dickson, Los Perros, Grey, or Paine Grande, you need to book through Vertice Patagonia.
Campsites Serón, Los Cuernos, Chileno, Las Torres (also known as Camping Central), or Francés, you need to book through Fantasticosur.
Campsites Italiano, Paso, or Torres Ranger Station & Camping (as of 2021, this site is temporarily closed), you need to make a reservation through CONAF (all of these campsites are free but reservations are required).
Staying in Puerto Natales: The night before we began the W Trek, we stayed at Chumango Hostel. It was nothing special, but they let us utilize their storage. This was very helpful so we didn’t have to bring all of our belongings on the trail. The hostel is only 10-15 minutes walking from Terminal Rodoviário.
Equipment Rental
Depending on your budget and how much you want to carry with you over the course of your trek, you have two options. You can rent your equipment from Puerto Natales or you can rent your equipment from each campground on the trail. The main items you will need are a tent, sleeping bag, and sleeping mat. If you rent in Puerto Natales, it will be less expensive, but you will have to carry the items with you as you hike. If you rent at each campground, it will be more expensive, but you won’t have to carry your equipment. Based on the price difference, my recommendation is to rent from Puerto Natales (specifically from Erratic Rock). Keep in mind they do not take equipment reservations (although I went the day before my trek and they had plenty of the items I needed in stock). Keep in mind the tent, portable stove, and utensil prices below can be split if you are traveling with a friend.
Option 1 - Rent in Puerto Natales (Prices updated in December 2020)
Tent: (5,000 CLP/night) x 5 nights = 25,000 CLP ($34 USD)
Sleeping Bag: (2,500 CLP/night) x 5 nights = 12,500 CLP ($17 USD)
Sleeping Mat: (1,500 CLP/night) x 5 nights = 7,500 CLP ($10 USD)
Portable Stove & Pot: (1,000 CLP/night) x 5 nights = 5,000 CLP ($7 USD)
Bowls, Cups, & Utensils: (1,000 CLP/night) x 5 nights = 5,000 CLP ($7 USD)
Total: 55,000 CLP ($75 USD)
Note: I paid for 5 nights even though I only camped for 4 because I picked up the equipment the day before I left for TdP (which you have to do).
Note: To accompany the portable stove, you will need to purchase a propane tank.
Option 2: Rent at each campground (Prices updated in December 2020)
Tent: 16,000 + 16,000 + 20,000 + 20,000 = 72,000 CLP ($98 USD)
Sleeping Bag: 10,000 + 10,000 + 15,000 + 15,000 = 50,000 CLP ($68 USD)
Sleeping Mat: 3,000 + 3,000 + 5,000 + 5,000 = 16,000 CLP ($22 USD)
Total: 138,000 CLP ($188 USD)
Note: Prices vary by campground (the first prices correspond to Camping Las Torres (Central), the second prices to Camping Francés, and third/fourth prices to Paine Grande).
Note: You cannot rent tents, sleeping bags, and sleeping mats from any of the free campgrounds (Italiano, Paso, or Torres Ranger Station & Camping). You can rent these items from all other campgrounds though.
Note: Even if you go this route, be sure to rent a portable stove (with a pot), bowls, cups, utensils, etc. unless you already have those! These cannot be rented from campgrounds.
Food/Water
My friends and I shopped at the Supermercado Unimarc the day before our trek. It is the easiest supermarket to get to given it is in the middle of town but, unfortunately, by the time we went shopping at 5:00pm most of the popular items we wanted to purchase were out of stock (peanut butter, avocados, etc.). If you can shop early in the morning the day before you are set to leave, I think that would be much better. Since we were going to be carrying all of our food on our backs over the following 5 days, we were very mindful of what we purchased. Our plan was to do bread with avocado for breakfast every morning, peanut butter and jelly sandwiches every day for lunch, and alternate between vegetable pasta/rice every night for dinner. Each meal was to be accompanied with fruit. As I said above though, by the time we went shopping, the items we wanted were no longer in stock. That said, we did vegetable pasta/rice for every meal. We got different sauces to switch up the flavors but it was clear that over these next few days, the main purpose of our meals was going to be fuel. All in all, I spent 18,000 CLP ($25 USD) on food and the extra weight totaled no more than 15 pounds (6.8 kg) to my backpack.
Water: There are plenty of places to fill up your water bottle in the national park. No need to buy it before entering.
Restrooms: There are not restrooms along the trail but all of the campgrounds have them (showers, too). The staff does a good job of keeping them stocked with toilet paper but it wouldn’t hurt to bring some with you (in case duty calls while you’re on the trail). If that is the case, dig a hole and bury your droppings!
Garbage: There are not rubbish bins along the trail. Some of the campgrounds have them but I wouldn’t expect to find many. Bring garbage bags and be prepared to carry your garbage with you. Littering in the park is a big no-no!
Packing
It is imperative to pack for both comfort and weight. While you don’t want to over-pack, it is also important to bring along all of the essentials. Below are the items I recommend packing:
1 65L backpack (with rain cover)
1 pair of comfortable, heavy-duty boots
1 pair of socks (thick, hiking) and underwear (long, thermal) per day
1 breathable, quick-dry shirt per day
2 pairs of water-proof, weather-resistant pants
2 pairs of athletic shorts
1 water-proof, weather resistant jacket
1 sweatshirt or fleece jacket
1 hat and pair of gloves
1 tent (can be rented in Puerto Natales)
1 sleeping bag and sleeping pad (can be rented in Puerto Natales)
1 cooking stove and stove with a propane tank (can be rented in Puerto Natales)
1 bowl and utensils (can be rented in Puerto Natales)
Other important items: toiletries, microfiber towel, reusable water bottle, flashlight, ear plugs, sunscreen, phone charger/adapter, sponge, dish soap, and hand sanitizer
Optional items include: hiking poles, blister guards, and padlock
Total Cost of the W Trek for 1 Person (5 Days/4 Nights)
Bus to Torres del Paine from Puerto Natales: 7,000 CLP ($10 USD)
National Park Entrance Fee: 35,000 CLP ($48 USD)
Campground Reservations: 54,000 CLP/2 = 27,000 CLP* ($37 USD)
Equipment Rental: 37,500 CLP** ($51 USD)
Food: 18,000 CLP ($25 USD)
4 Post-Trek, Celebratory Beers: 17,000 CLP ($23 USD)
Catamaran Ferry from Paine Grande to Pudeto: 25,700 CLP ($35 USD)
Bus to Puerto Natales from Torres del Paine: 6,000 CLP ($8 USD)
Total: 173,200 CLP ($237 USD or $47.40 USD/day)
*Campground prices are listed per tent; since I was sharing a tent with a friend, this cost was divided by two.
**The tent, stove, and utensil prices, I split with a friend. The sleeping bag and mat prices, I did not (obviously).
Consensus: I would do it 100 times over. In fact, I look forward to doing it again! Well worth the money spent!
The main bus station in Puerto Natales is Terminal Rodoviário; all buses below leave from here.
Santiago is 3.5 hours by plane from Puerto Natales and costs 36,000-70,000 CLP ($49-$95 USD). The bus ride is 42 hours (indirect; via Punta Arenas and Osorno) and costs 68,700 CLP ($94 USD). The first bus from Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas is 3.5 hours and costs 7,500 CLP. The second bus from Punta Arenas to Osorno is 26.5 hours and costs 38,200 CLP. The third and final bus from Osorno to Santiago is 12 hours and costs 23,000 CLP.
El Calafate, Argentina is 6 hours by bus from Puerto Natales and costs 17,000 CLP ($23 USD). I recommend buying this bus ticket before going to Torres del Paine since there are limited seats available daily; there are no border crossing fees for this journey. There are no direct flights between these two cities, but you can fly indirectly via Santiago and Buenos Aires.
Ushuaia, Argentina is 15 hours by bus (indirect; via Punta Arenas) from Puerto Natales and costs 42,500 CLP ($58 USD). The first bus from Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas is 3 hours and costs 7,500 CLP. The second bus from Punta Arenas to Ushuaia is 12 hours and costs 35,000 CLP. There are no border crossing fees for this journey.
Valparaíso is 40+ hours by bus from Puerto Natales. The best route is to fly from Puerto Natales to Santiago (3.5 hours) and then bus to Valparaíso (2 hours).
Teniente Julio Gallardo Airport (PNT) is 10km (6 miles) from the city center and accessible via taxi. The taxi ride is 10 minutes and costs approximately 4,000 CLP ($5 USD); there is not a direct bus.
